Wilson
Bros Nursery is OPEN TO THE PUBLIC 7 DAYS A WEEK!
How
To Plant A Tree
Diagram
For Planting a Container Grown Tree
*Scroll
below for printer friendly version
1.
Begin by digging a hole
twice as wide as the
rootball and no deeper
than the rootball.
2. Remove tree from
container and scratch
exterior of root ball
to loosen feeder roots.
Place in hole making sure
that the top edge of the
root ball is 1-2"
above ground level. Place
more soil in hole and
tamp if necessary to achieve
proper height. Note:
Japanese Maples and Dogwoods
should be planted with
4-6" of rootball
as they do not like wet
feet.
3. Mix organic soil
ammendment such as Claycutter
at a 50/50 ratio with
soil that was removed
from the hole. Backfill
soil mixture to top of
rootball, tamping as you
go to remove any air pockets,
and taper gradually to
ground level. Essentially,
you are planting the rootball
in a 'raised mound.' Do
not place any soil on
top of rootball.
4. With remaining soil
mixture build a water
retaining ring to 3"
or so in height around
perimeter of mound.
5. After
planting water thoroughly.
6. For
larger trees it may staking
may be necessary. Tree
stake kits are perhaps
the easiest way to go
about staking. If you
would like to make your
own stakes ask your local
nursery where you purchased
the tree about proper
staking methods. Tree
stakes can be removed
after 1 year.
7. Broadcast
a good granular tree
fertilizer such as 14-7-7
w/elements atop rootball
at an amount suggested
on label of bag.
------ GROUND
LEVEL
An excellent alternative
method of fertilization,
and one that we always
use, is slow release
Agriform Fertilizer
Tablets. The size tablet
we use, and sell, requires
one tablet per 1/2"
of trunk diameter.
8. To retain adequate
moisture apply 2-3"
of bark mulch or pinestraw
to a distance of 2-3
feet from trunk of tree
or just beyond water
retaining ring.
CLICK
HERE to view descriptive
listings with photos of all
types of Trees that perform
well in Zone 8
We recommend planting container-grown
trees rather than field-grown/balled-and-burlapped
trees. Container trees come with
their entire root systems in tact,
while balled-and-burlapped trees
have lost half or more of their
roots during the digging process.
In our experience we have found
that container trees are easier
to manage, root in faster, grow
much more quickly, and have a much
greater survival rate.